Acqua di Stresa Acqua di Stresa Arum lily, calla lily, Easter lily: three names for one southern African native flower, which has the botanical name of Zantedeschia aethiopica. Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. Floris Tuberose Herms 24 Faubourg Chanel Coco (And weve adopted it ourselves.) WebIngredients. Leather in perfumery is not a natural essential oil that you buy. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. Guerlain LInstant de Guerlain Eau de Toilette In fact, its used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes - particularly within chypre and fougre fragrance categories, giving an initial fresh, airy, uplifting quality. Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Bella Bellissima Royal Saffron Jo Malone LondonWild Bluebell Dior Dolce Vita With golden yellow pea-like flowers, the short, bushy shrub Genista tinctoria (which is a member of the broom family) flourishes in dry uplands, in the US. (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). You can smell scents featuring ink on their fragrance pyramid and be right back there in the classroom, getting a whiff from your inky fingers. Andrea Maack Smart Goutal ParisEau dHadrien Bond No. As a flower, orange blossom has long played a role in weddings: maidens have carried it in bouquets and woven it into bridal headdresses since the time of the Crusaders, when trees were brought from the East to Europe, and began to flourish here. (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) Fragonard Mimosa The essential oil itself is distilled from the pine needles, young shoots and even sometimes the cones of this familiar evergreen, producing an oil with a refreshing woody-spiciness that conjures up Christmas like nothing else. Creed Jasmal Its been used in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot. Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating Celine Dion Celine Dion Goutal Eau du Ciel Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oudh is becoming hard to source. We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette Ylang ylang has a fruity top like a juicy crunchy pear and a body with an elegant floral softness that gives sensuality to both feminine and masculine fragrances," says Liegent. Philosophy Pure Grace Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla. Gardeners everywhere probably wish that every dandelion on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a perfume bottle. Wild chamomile, for instance, is herbal, sweet and fresh, more reminiscent of the tea we drink to calm ourselves or beckon sleep. Ever smelled a scent that seems like its dripping in honey? Dior Miss Dior Editions de Parfums Frdric Malle Lipstick Rose Its over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener. No one outside perfumery knows what it smells like by itself because to blends to beautifully with other materials. As fragrance expert withFragrances of the World Clayton Ilolahia explains, ambergris has been used in perfumery "for centuries." Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. Lancme Magie Noire "Crystalline in form and snow-white in color, coumarins presence in fragrances is ubiquitous. But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. According to the Bible, fig leaves preserved the modesty of Adam and Eve. Versace Crystal Noir. ChloEau de Parfum Intense With its slightly musky, woody, aromatic, earthy, warm and sensual scent, jatamansi also featured in body oils and unguents, in Roman times. But its aromatic nature really comes out when a distillation of the dried leaves and/or berries (in rum and water) is blended into perfumes (and aftershaves). Mariah Carey M 'The first association, when you tell me "leather", honestly, is "Swiss Army" and me serving there as soldier: mygeneration had the privilege of serving in thick leather shows that were made to endure a Swiss invasion of Moscow, including the way back. Jo Malone London Sweet Lime & Cedar Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne Pour le Matin Today, were more likely to wear fig behind our ears, and on our wrists. "The fragrance is an orange floral that is tart, sweet, uplifting, and aromatic. Pears themselves are a fruit-bowl staple today (though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say). Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, ReadThe Perfume Candy Boy's Guide to Vanilla,here. Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. Certainly no hot-blooded Roman, homesick for a city where rosewater bubbled through the fountains, awnings soaked in rose oil shielded VIPs in public amphitheatres from the baking sun, pillows and mattresses were stuffed with rosepetals (the better to propel the weary towards dreamland) and where rose garlands were the ultimate Roman must-have status symbol. Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. Prada No. Guerlain Rose Barbare Katy Perry Purr So fast does the rose fade, in fact, that some farmers in Turkey and Bulgaria transport their own copper stills to the fields, heating them on the spot over wood fires to distill the precious Damask Rose oil, which separates from the water when heated in only the tiniest of quantities: 170 rose flowers are said to relinquish but a single drop. Symbolically, olive leaves represent abundance (as well as glory) and thats certainly true of this Mediterranean tree, which is quite a multi-tasker in perfume-terms. Since the time of the early Arab perfumers, the flesh of peach kernels was used in scents and ointments. But its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise. Actually, the discovery of these synthetics by two German chemists, Tiemann and Krger was a breakthrough moment in perfumery, changing the face of modern perfumery. By Kilian Beyond Love (Dont worry: we wont test you.) Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Grain des Plaisir Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore Diptyque Eau de Tarocco The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Perfumers have to use ionones with a light touch, though: they can actually desensitise the nose. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. Floris A Rose For Chanel Coco Herms Terre dHerms Jovoy Psychdelique Sometimes, though, both the violet leaf and the flower are used together, for a cool contemporary violet effect, taking the edge off violets slightly great-auntishly old-fashioned powderiness. Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. 5 Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. Miller Harris LAir de Rien Miller Harris Fleur de Sel ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. KenzoKenzo Amour Florale Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Run your fingers over the leaves of a redcurrant bush, and youll get a catty quality thats distinctive, intriguing but not to everyones taste. "In the Aztec language, it's called 'the flower made of little bones,'" says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Ormonde Jayne Frangipani Smell water (or rather ozonic notes) in: There are over 100 species of lily and it always slightly breaks our heart to buy a bunch and discover: theyre not always scented But many varieties the Madonna lily (named as a nod to the purity of the Madonna), the Casablanca Lily and the Ambre/Stargazer Lily most definitely are, and their subtly different scents are all caaptured in perfumes: intoxicating, heady, rich and sweet, reminding us of jasmine or tuberose. The hairy-skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly fruity-florals. Versace Versace. Floris Stephanotis (Its even the name of a particular scent, from the Capri-based perfume house Carthusia). I love working with clary sage for its clean, pastel, genderless versatility," says perfumer Mackenzie Reilly. Bobbi Brown Baby Davidoff Cool Water Methylene chloride is often found in fragrances and is one of the most common beauty product ingredients. Ylang yang is also luscious, buttery, a little apricot-y and when smelled neat is a tad medicinal, too. More commonly, ink is a synthetic novelty ingredient, used mostly in mens fragrances to give a mysterious hint of solvent or damp moss, or (romantically) to conjure up the vision of someone writing love letters, perhaps, with a good old-fashioned quill. Honeyed and hay-like are other descriptions that perfumers give to saffron, which works especially well in Ambre-type perfumes. But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures "In perfumery, we use the oil extracted from the lemon peel, which is zesty and juicy, and gives brightness to a fragrance," says perfumer Dana Schmitt. Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. Cashmeran also works to expand and diffuse floral ingredients. GoutalParis Le Chevrefeuille Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI Cartier Eau de Cartier Serge Lutens Jeu de Peau, A hay meadow in a bottle? Sugary and sweet, sometimes greener and drier, the note can conjure up the smell of the popular American soft drink Kool-Aid: the same ingredients (methyl anthranilate and dimethyl anthranilate) go into both. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. So the story goes, Ernest Beaux Chanels original perfumer either misread his sums, or accidentally tipped a much greater quantity of aldehydes into the sample of perfume he was preparing for the discerning Mademoiselle Chanel, creating an overdose with almost 1% aldehydes. 'Thenatural extract is tooth-shaking sweet, seemingly (of course, it isntin reality),' explains perfumer Andy Tauer, 'and smells like a raspberry under LSD influence. It makes your perfume do more than just smell good. At least thats what I believe. Lime blossom (a.k.a. Guerlain Iris Ganache. Almost cool-as-a-cucumber, a touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time. L'Artisan Perfumer Jour de Fete. Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impriale But why the high price? ), The seeds left behind when the pretty yellow umbelliferous (umbrella-like) flowers have faded are used in steam-distillation of the fennel essential oil. (Nobodys quite sure where the fruit originated: maybe the southern Mediterranean, maybe China) Because of their luscious, hint-of-raspberry juiciness, blood oranges have become incredibly popular to eat and now theyre making their way into zesty perfumery, too, with a warm, tangy, citrussy, berry-like quality that adds a real sparkle factor to fragrance creations, complementing other citrus elements (mandarin, neroli, grapefruit), as well as rose and geranium, and spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. Natural perfumers whose palette of ingredients is limited love it, as it delivers an animalic quality yet is cruelty-free, generally harvested from hives that have matured over five years or so, carefully harvested by hand and then extracted using solvents. 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